Ultimate Guide to Polonnaruwa

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Polonnaruwa – A Comprehensive Travel Guide

• What is Polonnaruwa? An ancient city in Sri Lanka, known for its stunning archaeological ruins, temples, and unique heritage.
• Must-See Sites: Gal Vihara (rock-cut Buddha statues), the Royal Palace, Vatadage (circular relic house), and Parakrama Samudra.
• Best Time to Visit: November to March (cooler, dry season).
• How to Get There: From Colombo by train (6-7 hours), bus (6 hours), or car (5-6 hours).
• Essential Tips: Start early, dress modestly, bring water, and consider hiring a guide for the best experience.

1. Introduction: Why Visit Polonnaruwa?

Polonnaruwa is more than just a collection of ancient ruins; it’s a journey back in time to one of Sri Lanka’s most glorious eras. Located in the North Central Province, Polonnaruwa was the second capital of Sri Lanka after the fall of Anuradhapura in the 10th century. Today, it stands as a UNESCO World Heritage site and offers travelers a unique chance to explore well-preserved ruins, temples, and royal palaces.

What Makes Polonnaruwa Unique?

Unlike other historical sites in Sri Lanka, Polonnaruwa offers a mix of religious, military, and residential structures that reveal a complex society with diverse architectural influences from Hinduism and Buddhism. Imagine walking through the same corridors where kings and monks once roamed, discovering intricate carvings, vast reservoirs, and lush landscapes. [Include a personal note here: “When I first visited Polonnaruwa, I was amazed by…”].

2. The Historical Significance of Polonnaruwa

Polonnaruwa became the island’s capital in the 11th century under King Vijayabahu I, who liberated it from Chola invaders. The city flourished under the rule of King Parakramabahu I (1153-1186 AD), who is credited with building much of what can be seen today. He established massive irrigation systems, built the Royal Palace, and constructed monumental religious structures that still stand. The city continued to prosper under King Nissanka Malla before falling to foreign invasions in the late 13th century.

Key Historical Periods

• Pre-Polonnaruwa Era: Before becoming the capital, the site was a provincial town.
• 11th Century Rise: Became the capital under King Vijayabahu I after defeating the Chola invaders.
• Golden Age: During the reign of King Parakramabahu I, extensive development occurred.
• Decline and Abandonment: The city eventually fell to invaders in the 13th century and was abandoned.

3. Top Places to Visit in Polonnaruwa

3.1. Gal Vihara: The Iconic Rock-Cut Buddha Statues

Gal Vihara, a set of four stunning Buddha statues carved out of a single granite rock face, is the crown jewel of Polonnaruwa. Each statue, from the serene seated Buddha to the reclining Parinirvana pose, showcases the exceptional craftsmanship of the ancient sculptors.

• What to Look For:
  • Seated Buddha: In deep meditation with a detailed robe and lotus throne.
  • Reclining Buddha: 14 meters long, representing the Buddha’s death and entry into Nirvana.
  • Standing Buddha: Unique for its crossed arms and melancholic expression—rare in Buddhist art.
• Best Time to Visit: Late afternoon, when the sunlight adds depth to the carvings.

3.2. The Royal Palace Complex: A Glimpse into Royal Life

The Royal Palace, once a seven-story structure, is now in ruins but still exudes grandeur. This was the administrative center of the city and the residence of the monarch.

• Key Highlights:
  • The Royal Audience Hall: Where the king held meetings with his ministers, adorned with intricate lion carvings.
  • King’s Council Chamber: Where decisions about the kingdom were made; look for the unique carvings on the stone slabs.
  • Swimming Pool and Baths: The royal bathing pools with complex drainage systems—showing an advanced understanding of engineering.
• Insider Tip: Opt for a local guide to provide context about the structures, their functions, and the life of the royal court.

3.3. Vatadage: The Sacred Circular Relic House

One of the most picturesque and intriguing structures, the Vatadage is a circular relic house believed to have once housed the Sacred Tooth Relic of the Buddha.

• Architectural Features:
  • Two stone platforms, one over the other, with beautifully carved guard stones and moonstones.
  • Four entrances, each flanked by guardstones with lotus designs, leading to a central dagoba.
• Why It’s Special: A rare architectural style, with detailed carvings that represent the peak of Sri Lankan Buddhist art.
• Photographer’s Tip: Visit early in the morning to capture soft, golden light for your photos.

3.4. Parakrama Samudra: The Sea of Parakrama

Built by King Parakramabahu I, this massive reservoir covers 2,500 hectares and was designed to irrigate the farmlands around Polonnaruwa. It also served as a defense mechanism against invaders.

• What to Do:
  • Take a scenic walk along the embankments, which offer stunning views of the lake and its surroundings.
  • Watch for local wildlife, including water buffalo and migratory birds.
  • Sunset is the best time to visit for a serene experience.
• Travel Hack: Rent a bicycle and explore the surrounding countryside along with the lake.

4. Lesser-Known Gems in Polonnaruwa

4.1. Lankatilaka Temple: A Hidden Architectural Marvel

The Lankatilaka Temple is a brick-built shrine with a massive, headless Buddha statue flanked by tall, imposing walls. It’s a hidden gem often missed by tourists.

• Why Visit?: Unique architecture with a narrow hall leading to the inner sanctum, featuring beautiful frescoes and intricate carvings.
• Insider Tip: Visit in the afternoon when the temple is less crowded.

4.2. Kiri Vihara: The Milk-White Stupa

This pristine white stupa, built by King Parakramabahu’s Queen, is the second-largest in Polonnaruwa. It’s named “Kiri Vihara” (milk-white) for its bright color, which has been maintained over the centuries.

• What to See: Well-preserved whitewashed exterior, a perfect example of a Sri Lankan dagoba.
• Travel Tip: Combine your visit here with a trip to Lankatilaka and other nearby temples.

5. How to Get to Polonnaruwa

5.1. From Colombo

• By Train:
  • The train ride from Colombo to Polonnaruwa takes around 6-7 hours. Choose the express service for a faster journey. Second and third-class seats are comfortable and offer scenic views of the countryside.
  • Travel Tip: Book tickets in advance via the Sri Lanka Railways website. Bring snacks and water, as the food options on board are limited.
• By Bus:
  • Direct buses from Colombo take about 6 hours. Buses depart from the Pettah Bus Stand regularly.
  • Insider Tip: Take an air-conditioned bus for a more comfortable ride. Purchase tickets at the station or online.
• By Car:
  • Renting a car or hiring a driver is another option, allowing you to explore at your own pace. The journey takes around 5-6 hours, depending on traffic.
  • Pro Tip: Use this route to stop by Sigiriya or Dambulla along the way.

5.2. Getting Around Polonnaruwa

• Tuk-Tuks: Available at all key sites; negotiate fares beforehand.
• Bicycles: Renting a bike is the most popular way to explore. There are plenty of rental shops near the city center.
• Motorcycles: Ideal for those who want to cover more ground quickly.
• Guided Tours: Highly recommended for history enthusiasts. Local guides are available at the entrance to major sites.

6. Best Time to Visit Polonnaruwa

• Peak Season (November to March): Dry season with cooler temperatures—ideal for sightseeing.
• Off-Season (May to October): Expect fewer crowds and lower prices, but be prepared for occasional rain.
• Seasonal Tips:
  • November to February: Best for clear skies and photography.
  • March to April: Warmer, but still manageable. Great for budget travelers.
  • May to October: If you don’t mind a bit of rain, this period offers a quieter experience.
• Weather Overview: Polonnaruwa experiences a tropical climate, with temperatures ranging from 25°C to 32°C throughout the year.

7. Tips for Visiting Polonnaruwa

• Start Early: The best time to explore is early morning when temperatures are cooler.
• Dress Modestly: Long pants and sleeves are required when visiting temples. Light, breathable fabrics are ideal.
• Hydrate and Protect: Carry water, wear a hat, and use sunscreen.
• Hire a Local Guide: Gain a deeper understanding of the history and significance of each site.
• Photography Tips: Use a polarizing filter to reduce glare and capture the intricate details of the ruins.
• Safety Advice: Watch out for monkeys, especially around temples—they can be aggressive.

8. Where to Stay in Polonnaruwa

8.1. Luxury Accommodations

• Hotel Sudu Araliya: Overlooks Parakrama Samudra, with modern amenities, a pool, and a spa.
  • Room Rates: Starting from $150 per night.
  • Why Stay Here? Perfect for those who want comfort with a touch of luxury.

8.2. Mid-Range and Budget Options

• Seyara Holiday Resort: A cozy guesthouse with friendly staff and local cuisine.
  • Room Rates: Starting from $40 per night.
  • Why Stay Here? Budget-friendly with a homey atmosphere.

8.3. Homestays

• Mango Tree House: Experience local hospitality with a family-run homestay.
  • Room Rates: Starting from $20 per night.
  • Why Stay Here? Immerse yourself in the local culture and cuisine.

9. Conclusion: Your Polonnaruwa Adventure Awaits

Polonnaruwa is not just a destination; it’s an experience that offers a unique window into Sri Lanka’s rich history and culture. Whether you’re a history buff, a photographer, or a casual traveler, this ancient city has something for everyone. So, pack your bags, prepare for adventure, and let Polonnaruwa captivate you as it did the kings and monks of the past.Thank you for reading! Check out my other Sri Lanka travel guides for more insights and hidden gems.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) about Polonnaruwa